Written by Nahuel Contreras
Nicola Bacchilega has set an engaging precedent as a designer with a formative background in sculpture, and a yearning to create collections rooted in cultural honoring. Through a process of artistic fluency and intellectual flexibility, Bacchilega’s distinctive pieces comprise the timeless preservation of Italian craftsmanship, specialist embroidery and detailed executions, with an unparalleled dedication to the representation of his ideas. With past collections defining a new phase of beauty and igniting the senses through vivid colours and a textural appeal driven by the human form, his AW17 collection ‘No ID.’ is stylistically consistent, yet takes cultural referencing to new heights. He was able to seamlessly introduce a trope of escapism and fantasy permeated by a design stint to Marrakech. With the influences inherent in the design choices, colour palette and materials, Bacchilega has aesthetically re-imagined what it means to be romantic.
The collection declares a soulful balance of traditional yet contemporary, reinforcing the presence of the Maghreb’s djellaba, yet evolving its silhouette into a structured wool and silk cape tunic. Contrasted with, are the horsehair skin leather high boots that are geometrically designed and embodied in red and blue. A brand not to be limited by social convention, AW17 delivers leather corsets; from a waist optimizing look, to breathing life into a padded jacket designed with a corset fastening. A “little black dress” is reinvented as an asymmetrical design with a dipping décolletage enhanced with draping. A sweetheart neckline accentuated with a sheer green crowning and the decorative contrast between intricate texture and delicate fabrics, enhance the romanticism of Nicola Bacchilega AW17. A stimulating spectrum of richly vivid colours, connoting the hidden jewels of the medina, command a presence throughout, “symbolizing celestial perfection and earthly passion, time and eternity, life and death, completeness and the profoundness of the mystery of life” explains Nicola. Millicent Rogers, a timeless symbol of fashion and beauty, who defined an alternative interpretation of opulence and elegance, became the designer’s muse for AW17. Bacchilega divulges that he “aims to elevate lifestyle aspects”, as embodied in Rogers.
As a prerequisite to the shoot, Bacchilega established a narrative as ethereal as the clothes themselves, “Millicent Rogers went to Marrakesh experimenting a folkloristic elegance”. Understanding the allure of ambiguity, he defines his concept ‘Transnatural’ as, “Nothingness, supernatural, a connection to the unknown. A woman will be confronted with the transformation of herself into transnatural elements.”
With the desire to create for those who wish their style to be reflective of who they truly are, Nicola Bacchilega offers a collection that transcends beautiful clothes, to a lifestyle with magnetism that recapitulates the aesthetic of romanticism and contemporary culture.